Information & Answers to Your Questions

"What is a Parti Yorkie?" 


The beautiful Parti Yorkshire Terrier is quite a remarkable sight to behold and making a huge impact in the USA. The Parti Yorkie is a colored version of the standard Yorkshire Terrier and the result of breeding two purebred Yorkies, who both happened to carry the parti color producing gene. One sometimes cannot tell by looking at a parti carrier that they are a carrier because most of them are traditionally colored, and many I will add, ARE Champions. Since the parti color producing gene is a recessive gene, it will not produce a parti colored offspring unless the gene is carried by both parents. However, the gene can be passed along from one parent to their offspring and lay dormant for many years going completely unnoticed for many generations, to only surface when a parti gene carrier is mated with another parti gene carrier. When this happens the results can produce various coloring in Yorkshire Terriers.

"What is the History of the Parti Yorkie?"


Mrs. Loryn Bogren of Crownridge Kennels, happened to see a "back door" tri-colored beauties and was intrigued by them; so much so, that she followed the person who owned this puppy for 5 miles to get the name of the breeder. After learning the parti-colored puppy came from Nikko's Kennels, she met with Mrs. Lipman (Nikko's Kennels) with the interest to obtain some of these dogs. Mrs. Lipman stated that the dogs could be only be registered as blue and gold, as AKC did not have a color code classification for the Parti Yorkshire Terrier. 

Mrs. Bogren of Crownridge Kennels, however, was adamant about wanting the dog registered as the Parti color. She told Mrs. Lipman of Nikko's Kennel that she would buy every colored pup produced if she would agree to allow DNA to be done on the dogs who produced the unique coloring. 

This turned out to be a very lengthy and costly process for Mrs. Lipman, as AKC shut down her kennel in 1999 for 18 months to conduct DNA studies of 42 litters, sires and dams. She was not allowed to breed, sell or conduct any business during this time. Three of the dogs tested were owned by Mrs. Bogren and 1 owned by Mrs. Gesmundo (Summit Yorkies). The rest tested were Gloria Lipman's. 

During this study, AKC also spoke with many other Yorkie breeders about off-colored pups born in other bloodlines. Many highly respected breeders finally admitted they occasionally produced these off-colored pups. After researching and tracing many lines, it should also be noted that not only Nikko lines, but many other well-known lines in the USA and abroad produced Parti colors. 

In June of 2000, the DNA studies of Nikko's Kennel was completed to the satisfaction of AKC. AKC decided after a study of the Yorkshire Terrier history and the DNA of the dogs involved in the study, that they were satisfied that the colors can be produced in otherwise normal litters of Yorkshire Terriers. According to the DNA results from AKC, the Parti color has been shown to be in the natural makeup of the Yorkshire Terrier. 

Parti Yorkshire Terriers CAN BE registered with the AKC as Parti-color. 

"What do your puppies cost and what is included?"

 

Our puppies range from $2500 -$3500, depending on size. We do not sell our puppies cheap, because we are selective in who purchases from us, as we put a lot of money, time and love into our adults and puppies. We want to make sure they go to their forever, loving home and are well-taken care of. There is a lot of cost associated with breeding, from nutritious food and vitamins, to all the miscellaneous equipment that is required to grow healthy, happy puppies.

Your new puppy will have had his/her tail docked, dew claws removed and already on a de-worming schedule.

Healthy Parents and Puppies are Our Priority! Our Mommas are fed high quality vitamins before they are bred. Moms receive prenatal vitamins during pregnancy, plus an addition of fresh puppy food and puppy kibble, which is an excellent source of nutrition.

 

We are aware and expect within a day or two when Mom will give birth, so there are no surprises or devastating outcomes. During the days before the birth, the mom’s temperature is taken three times per day, and as soon as her temperature drops to 98 degrees, we know labor has started. During this time, our moms are never left alone to have her puppies - we do not leave her side. No matter what time of day or night mom goes into labor, we assist her in every way possible. We soothe her with touch, and offer her goat’s milk, vanilla ice cream or cottage cheese for energy and calcium. Mom is also given Cal-Sorb, to help with contractions and stamina. The health of our mom and puppies is closely monitored from the moment she goes into labor and for several hours after birth - they are never left alone. Puppies are weighed and recorded every day to monitor and secure enough nursing and weight gain. If a puppy is not eating enough, a supplement of a special milk mixture is given (recipe available upon request). This rarely happens, due to the amazing beginning they are provided at conception.

We truly love our Mommas, Papas and Puppies, and we strive to keep them healthy, happy and socialized, so they have the very best lives they can live!

HYPOGLYCEMIA, the medical term for low blood sugar, is the NUMBER ONE cause of death in toy breeds.  Buyers, please read this information carefully, because you can prevent a hypoglycemic death.  Because Hypoglycemia is preventable, it is NOT covered by my guarantee.  It is YOUR responsibility as a new puppy owner to READ THIS INFORMATION and become educated on how to properly care for your new puppy.

Hypoglycemia most often occurs in puppies from 8 to 20 weeks of age, but can also occur in mature toy breeds when they become stressed.  STRESS is what usually causes hypoglycemia.  Puppies can become stressed from actions such as moving to a new home, being alone for long periods of time, playing too rough, refusing to eat, change of environment and food/water, too much traveling, exposure to low room temperatures, bacterial infections, or from your inability to let your puppy rest and sleep. Puppies need A LOT of sleep! Puppies should most definitely sleep and rest more than they are allowed to play, and you should never wake a sleeping puppy.

There are many warning signs of hypoglycemia: lack of energy, weakness, tilting of the head, an unbalanced wobbling when walking, great hunger or refusal to eat, restlessness, high pitched whimpering and whining, shivering and/or trembling, disorientation, seizures or convulsions, white or pale gray gums, coma, and death. If your new puppy is displaying any of these symptoms you should assume it is hypoglycemia and treat it accordingly.  It's always better to be safe than sorry! If your puppy was not having a hypoglycemic spell, treatment would not hurt -- but if the spell WERE due to hypoglycemia, treatment would save your puppy's life.

 

If you own or plan to own a toy breed puppy, there are things you need to always keep on hand: Nutro Ultra soft puppy food, "Karo" brand corn syrup, "Nutri-cal," "HoneyNut Cheerios" or "Lucky Charms" brand cereal (FYI: adding about 8 pieces of one of these cereals to your puppy's usual meal, is a great PREVENTATIVE tip for hypoglycemia), "Vienna" sausages from the baby/toddler aisle in the grocery store, "Pedialyte" or "Rebound," and a heating pad. 

When treating your puppy for hypoglycemia, you should always remain CALM. If you suspect your puppy is showing MILD signs of hypoglycemia, you should start treating him immediately by feeding him a mixture of the Nutro Ultra soft puppy food at about a tablespoon of the wet food to a 1/3 cup of the dry food.  If your puppy will not eat that, lightly drizzle the "Karo" corn syrup over the top of the mixture.  Let the puppy taste the syrup from your finger.  If the puppy STILL refuses to eat, "Nutri-cal" should be administered immediately.  Place about an inch of "Nutri-cal" on your finger and wipe it on the roof of your puppy's mouth or tongue.  Repeat this process in 10-minute intervals, if needed. I provide a little container to help in these situations of "Nutri-cal," or you can use "Karo" corn syrup as a backup.  Once your puppy is more alert, feed him the wet/dry puppy food mixed with the "Karo" drizzled on top.  If your puppy is still refusing to eat the mixture, try the baby/toddler "Vienna" sausages.  Your puppy will probably be dehydrated and will need a lot of liquids. Offer him/her "Pedialyte"." Also, your puppy will most likely be cold, so you will need to fix him/her a bed on top of a heating pad set on medium temperature.  Your puppy may also want to snuggle close to you to get warm. Allow your puppy to get a lot of undisturbed rest. 

Observe your puppy for several hours to ensure a hypoglycemic spell doesn't happen again.  Continue observing your pet and give corn syrup and food as needed.  If your puppy is showing SEVERE signs of hypoglycemia, especially if he is having seizures or is unconscious, you must give "Karo" corn syrup immediately.  Carefully rub a small amount of the syrup on the cheeks and gums.  Do NOT put a lot of liquid in the puppy's mouth, and be sure the puppy does not choke. Do not stick your fingers between the teeth of a seizing puppy -- you may get bitten.  Call a vet immediately and get additional instructions.  Your puppy will most likely need to go to the vet immediately.

Please remember to keep plenty of food and water available to your puppy at ALL times and that your puppy gets plenty of rest.

We sincerely hope that your puppy never has a hypoglycemic attack, and we also hope that this information will prevent an attack or educate you on how to treat it.  Our goal is to ALWAYS provide you with a happy, healthy puppy!

Please take a few moments to read the following Yorkie information and tips I have provided. They are really simple and can save an expensive trip to the vet, or even save your puppy’s life. I am a firm believer that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. As always, I am here to help you with your puppy day or night, but taking the time to learn and understand your puppy’s needs is critical. Please never hesitate to call me with any questions or concerns about you puppy.

1.  A puppy is very susceptible to disease and Parvo until 2 full weeks AFTER their last round of vaccinations. Just because your puppy had their final vaccination, does NOT mean they are fully protected. I highly recommend not taking your new puppy out of the house until 14 days after their last vaccine. I know it is so hard to not show off your new puppy, but it can cost them their life!

If you absolutely insist on taking your puppy out, DO NOT let their feet touch the ground for any reason. Not even to go potty! It is that serious for your puppy’s health. Keep a pee pad with you and let your puppy pee on the pad in your car if you must. Make sure to keep your puppy in your purse or arms at all times if you take them out of the house before they are fully vaccinated. 

2.  Never use a collar on your Yorkie puppy, always use a body harness. Yorkies have very delicate tracheas and the pulling and pressure from a traditional collar against their windpipe can contribute to trachea collapse. A body harness is also a good idea so you can pull your tiny puppy to safety if needed. Puppies do not know they are tiny and will confront a large aggressive dog with no fear at all. The last thing you want is for your Yorkie baby to end up in the jaws of another dog. 

3.  Plain yogurt is great for Yorkie digestive system. If your puppy’s tummy is upset and your puppy ever throws up, give her a little bit of yogurt to help restore the natural, good bacteria in their digestive track. Please make sure the yogurt contains NO ARTIFICIAL SWEETER. This is generally found in diet and low calorie yogurt. Sugar substitute can be deadly to a your puppy. 

4.  Yorkies are prone to dental problems and retained teeth. Yorkie puppies are at an increased risk for retained baby teeth. Brushing your puppy’s teeth at least 2x a week will do wonders. A finger toothbrush from a pet store works great. You just slip it on your finger and can easily control how much pressure you apply. Start brushing your puppy’s teeth when they are a baby so they are comfortable with it. If your puppy just doesn't want their teeth brushed, try letting them chew on the toothbrush bristles with a little doggy toothpaste on it. It will help clean their teeth and maybe down the road your puppy will be a little more open to having their teeth brushed. Holding them down and forcing them is not a good idea! They will hate it and associate the toothbrush with a negative experience.

5.  No pork for your puppy! Puppies are prone to pancreatitis and pork is just too rich for them. For a treat, a tiny amount of skinless, plain baked chicken breast is okay. Just make sure you tear it up into tiny pieces so your puppy does not choke. 

6.  Yorkies, and especially tiny Yorkies, should never, ever jump off the couch or your bed. They can easily fracture their fragile bones.  Pet steps are available for tiny pets if you want your puppy to be able to safely climb on and off beds and couches. 

7.  Honey-Nut Cheerios are wonderful for your puppy to snack on! The sugar helps keep their blood sugar up and prevents hypoglycemia in your puppy.  Marshmallows are also great for tiny puppies to play with. They just love to carry them around and the sugar keeps them from becoming hypoglycemic. I would only try this trick for the first few weeks after bringing your puppy to their new home. Too much sugar is not good for your pet, but I would definitely rather my puppy have a little sugar rush than to become hypoglycemic. Please continue with the same puppy food to avoid upset stomachs. 

8.  If your puppy is a picky eater and is not eating their kibble, try sprinkling some parmesan cheese on top. This almost always works and your puppy should eat with no problems. 

Certain foods are extremely toxic to toy breeds, such as Yorkies and Maltese. Please don't take any chances with your puppy’s health. Feed your puppy only their food. For a treat, a small amount of baked, skinless chicken breast is okay. You may also give

your puppy a little cottage cheese, or some plain yogurt that contains NO artificial sugar. Puppies also love Parmesan cheese sprinkled on their kibble. If you have any questions about what foods you can give your puppy, please call me!

Chocolate/Caffeine:

Chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. After a puppy has eaten a large quantity of chocolate, many puppy owners assume their puppy is unaffected. However, the signs of sickness may not be seen for several hours, with death following within 24 hours. Symptoms include staggering, labored breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, tremors, fever, heart rate increase, arrhythmia, seizures, coma and death.

Cocoa powder and cooking chocolate are the most toxic forms. A 20 pound dog can be seriously affected if it eats a quarter of a 250 gm packet of cocoa powder or half a 250 gm block of cooking chocolate. These forms of chocolate contain 10x more theobromine than milk chocolate. Thus, a chocolate mud cake could be a real health

risk for a small dog. Even licking a substantial part of the chocolate icing from the cake can make a dog sick.

Semi-sweet chocolate and dark chocolate are the next most dangerous. A dog needs to eat more than a 250 gm block of milk chocolate to be affected. Obviously, the smaller the dog, the less it needs to eat.

Avocados:

The fruit, pits and plant can trigger fluid retention in your puppy's lungs. This can lead to difficulty in breathing, causing lack of oxygen, leading to death.

Onions:

Contains the toxic ingredient thiosulphate. Puppies affected by onion toxicity will develop hemolytic anemia where the puppie's red blood cells burst while circulating in its body. Symptoms include labored breathing, liver damage, vomiting, diarrhea and discolored urine. The poisoning occurs a few days after the puppy has eaten the onion. All forms of onion can be a problem including dehydrated onions, raw onions, cooked onions and onion powder. Be careful of foods containing onion or onion powders. It's very toxic to your puppy. Puppies are sometimes fed baby food. Some baby foods contain onion powder! Read the label and check. Baby foods labeled "better tasting" also contain onion powder!

Mushrooms:

Mushroom toxicity does occur in puppies and can be fatal if certain species of mushrooms are eaten. Amanita phalloides is the most commonly reported severely toxic species of mushroom in the US but other Amanita species are toxic. Symptoms include abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, coma and death.

Grapes/Raisins:

As few as a handful of raisins or grapes can make a puppy dog ill. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and lethargy.

Macadamia Nuts:

Macadamia nuts are another concern, along with most other kinds of nuts. Their high phosphorus content is said to possibly lead to bladder stones.

Baby Food:

Baby food is great for puppies who are not eating well, but make certain it contains no onion powder which is toxic. Baby food labeled "better tasting" contains onion powder.

Bones from Meat Sources:

Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.

Sugarless Gum:

Extremely deadly, even in small amounts.

Cat Food:

Cat food is generally too high in protein and fats.

If your puppy ingests any toxic foods, contact your veterinarian or

ASPCA Poison Control at 1-888-426-4435

It will never be easier to potty train your puppy than right now! Establish good habits early!​

Up until your new puppy is around 16-18 weeks of age and has received all of her shots, she is now ready to explore outside of her pen/kennel! For best results, at this point, you'll want to separate or divide her kennel into two parts. In the first part, put all of her toys, blankets, food and water dishes. This section is for when you leave the house or are unable to supervise her. In the second part, only put her pee pad. This is where you place her and command her to do her "business." Decide what command you and your family want to use for her to do her business, i.e., "Let's go Tinkle," "Let's go Pee-Pee,""Let's go Potty,"and speak that every time you place her in that section. Praise and remove her when she's done. Both sections should have potty pads (to protect your floor), but only one is exclusively for her to do her business. Have a very watchful eye as she wanders around and every 30 minutes or so (or if she looks like she needs to go potty), place her back in the potty pen section so she knows that's where she must do "it." Praise her when she completes this task and take her out again, watching her very closely. 

Don't EVER let the puppy run around unsupervised! He will surely go potty wherever he sees fit, and if you don't put him back in the pen to do his business, you will have caused him to do it outside of the pen and will fail to train him correctly. It is up to the OWNER to watch and act, in order to train your puppy to do his business in the correct place. When he's done, bring him out of the pen and play with him then - not while he's doing his business. Puppies pee and poop after they eat, after they wake up and after they play. You can be 100% sure that they will after each one of these activities! If you are consistent with allowing the puppy to only do his business in one place, he will eventually learn this and not forget. If you are not consistent, or not vigilent in watching their behavior outside of the pen, they will learn that it's ok to do their business wherever and whenever they choose. Also, please note that EVERYONE in the household MUST be on the same page with this and follow the same routine, or your puppy will become very confused and never learn what you want him to learn.

After she has learned the previous step, it is now time to transition learning to outside. Put the pen outside (with the potty pad still in it). After playing, eating or sleeping, or if you see your puppy circling as if she has to go potty, tell her, "Let's go potty!" and walk out to the pen, placing her inside. Wait until she goes, praise her and take her out of the pen. After a few days, remove the potty pad in the pen and put her in the pen on the grass, so she understands that she is to do her business on the grass. After that, you can remove the pen if you'd like and you've now trained your puppy to do her business on the grass where it belongs! 

After this point, when it's time for your puppy to do his business, just announce, "Let's go potty!" and your happy puppy will follow you with excitement out the door, knowing exactly what is expected of him.

If your puppy does have an accident, clean the area with a product that completely takes away the smell, so she isn't likely to go potty there again.

Umbilical Hernias

If you notice a protrusion in the area of your puppy's belly button, underneath his rib cage, it's likely he has an umbilical hernia. In some puppies, these hernias close up and disappear before the age of 6 months. If it doesn't go away, surgical removal is advisable. While most umbilical hernias don't bother adult dogs, there's always the slim possibility that part of his intestines could become trapped, cutting off the blood flow. This results in strangulation, requiring emergency surgical correction.

Inguinal Hernias

Inguinal hernias are less common in puppies than umbilical hernias. They can occur in male puppies, but are more often found in female dogs going through pregnancy or estrus. You might notice a swelling in the area of your dog's groin, or in the scrotum of an intact male dog. Inguinal hernias are usually painless and don't cause problems unless a strangulation results.

Correction

Hernias in puppies are often corrected when the dog is spayed or neutered, since the animal is already under anesthesia. Scar tissue formed around an umbilical hernia is removed. The site is then closed by suturing. With an inguinal hernia, any organs that protrude are put back in place, with stitches or a muscle graft repairing the hernia. Most puppies experience no complications and hernia recurrence is rare. The puppy might need to wear an Elizabethan collar for several days after surgery, but that also would be necessary to keep a spayed female from bothering her incision.

Size of Puppies

 AKC's Yorkie breed size standard, says they can range from 4-7 lbs., but I love every single one of them, no matter how much smaller or bigger they become. Since it's nearly impossible to predict how big a puppy will grow to be, I will only list weights of the parents. I will not give a projected size on puppies. Even the numerous growth charts you can find on search engines, are often wrong. You can view my litters and request the smallest puppy out of that litter, if you are looking for a puppy on the smaller size. I just don't want people passing up on incredible puppies with beautiful markings & coloring, because they may think a 4 pound max is what a Yorkie's size should be. On the contrary! Pure Breed Yorkies come in all sizes and colors!